Im in the process of clearing out my game collection of the stuff I no longer play, or never have played. the entire list is here:

 http://forum.rpg.net/showthread.php?p=9620447

Thanks for looking.

I am almost done with the initial setup of the dungeon Im working on, I finished painting several pieces last night and have a couple more pieces that I want to build leaving any "filler" pieces to round it out. Pictures will be forthcoming.

Next thing on the list is painting the drawers and drawers of lead I have collected over the years. I finially got to play with the new Reaper Pro Paints and they are fantastic.

 

This is mostly for those who do not use foam core as a base for your models, but cereal boxes instead. Ever run into a situation where you want a pool of water that isn’t very deep and has a flagstone floor? You could raise the height of the model by elevating the whole thing and using steps and lay out the flagstone tiles, or you could hand paint in each stone or you can do this:

This is a variant based off of tip #16, Making antique foil doors.

Items needed is a mousepad, heavy duty foil, your pattern, a ballpoint pen, glue, and a section from a cereal box big enough to back your project when finished.

Step one: sketch out over your pattern the size of the area you are going to use. no sense in tracing with the ballpoint pen any more than you need to.

Step two: lay the heavy-duty foil down over the mousepad (fabric side up), make sure it is smoothed out, being careful not to crease the foil. Then lay the pattern down on top of that. If you feel the need to tape everything down, then go ahead.

Step three: trace out the pattern on the paper, using just enough force to cause the foil to indent, keep your hands outside of the pattern area.

Step four: remove the pattern, and then remove the foil, being careful not to cause it to crinkle or crease. Turn foil over and put glue on that side to make the pattern permanent. Let glue dry completely then glue the cardboard back down.

Step five: turn the floor over and prime it. I primed mine black and used a lighter gray acrylic paint to drybrush giving it a stone look. The black will be down in the cracks between the stones.

Step six: glue floor down into finished piece, and fill with Envirotex lite.

The piece below is 4" x 2 1/2"

 

Late April I swapped out molds with a friend of mine for the sole reason to try out some new molds to see if they were something I would be interested in purchasing at a later date. One of the molds was for the Egyptian tower, which I finished last night. All-in-all, I’m glad this project is done, as it has been sitting there mocking me that it took so long to complete (the ruined fieldstone tower took only took 1 week from first cast to flocking). I’m not totally happy with the results, but its good enough for a tabletop game.

Here are a few things I discovered. You have to be precise with your blocks; it’s not as forgiving as fieldstone. A short or long block can cause all sorts of problems. I pained it up using the color "Sands of Time" which we had left over from painting out living room a couple of years ago. I then stained it using a dark oak finish, which took about a week to dry. I can see some other applications using the foil door technique, like built in wall murals (priming and painting them instead or staining)

FYI, the molds I borrowed were the Dragon's Teeth Accessory Mold, Egyptian Tower, Basic block mold (#100), Egyptian Weave Floor, and the fieldstone bridge, of those the field stone bridge will be the one I’m most likely to get in the future. Anyway, it is done, and now I can get back to the dungeon full time (after I’m done with the fieldstone bridge).

 

I’m a big fan of the 1st edition of Warhammer FRP, and was considering it as a basis for a dungeon crawl game in the near future. After looking at the rules again I was concerned about the players not being interested. After much debating I finally decided on using D&D 3.5 as the base system since everyone knew it and most already had the books. Using 3.5 opened up a whole new slew of problems, like rapid advance, epic (or superheroic) feel (Warhammer is anything but "epic"), and the power level of magic users in later levels.

The first compromise I ran across was E6. This d20 variant allows the characters to advance to level 6 as normal, but after that the only advancement would be a new feat every 5000 exp. This seemed to hit the mark and 6th level is considered by some to be the "sweet spot". Unfortunately, I ran into some resistance from the group, so I kept on searching.

The next book I ran across was Unearthed Arcana. (via d20srd.org) I had overlooked this book many times because of the various "alternate races" like the aquatic gnomes or the Jungle Dwarves. After flipping past that I found a bunch of alternate rules which helped tone down the power level and add flavor. Wounds & Vitality, Rituals, Traits, and Action Points are just a few of the items that will make it into the game.

Finally someone pointed me in the direction of a book called Darkness and Dread by Fantasy Flight Games. If Warhammer d20 was ever made Darkness & Dread is what it would look like. It replaces all the classes with 24 new core classes like beggar, herbalist, worker, artisan, and sewerjack. Most of these classes only go to level 5 with a few exceptions going to level 10. Most of the classes are not weak either, the sewerjack has the best saves of any character I have seen and the Worker, by level 5, will have obtained 4 Stat increases. If one is to multi-class, there are entry requirements. I had to tweak the rules a bit here though, because skill requirements were current level +3 to get into some classes. If the skill happened to be a cross class skill it would be impossible to switch without spending a feat. I have changed this to must have 3 ranks, which will be obtainable after 3rd level. Besides entry requirements for classes, and non standard classes, you can also roll for your beginning class if you so desire.

Other parts of the book deal with horror. These may or may not be used as my plans are not for a horror campaign, but a "low-level" action/adventure game.

The other book I intend to use is The City State of the Invincible Overlord by Necromancer games.